Willow chair seating

Pickled oak and white willow chairI wanted to learn how to weave the willow seat that I had found on the chairs made by David Drew. They had aged beautifully during their time in the Castle Drogo cafe and worn extremely well so I knew it was a perfect material.
In another nice turn to this story, shortly after moving to Cumbria, I met basketmaker Phil Bradley through mutual friends. Phil had first learned his basketmaking from David Drew and was interested in the seating himself so I lent him my chair to examine and organised for myself and Paul Girling, another green wood chairmaker, to go up to Phil’s workshop to learn to weave them together.
Phil Bradley examines the willow chair seatWe had a fantastic weekend at Phil’s workshop in Cockermouth talking about chair design, basketmaking and craft in general while he took us through the steps of weaving the seat with white willow.
It was a learning experience for him too and, though he had worked out the main elements of the seat, there were certain points that we only figured out as we did them. Several times Phil was impressed with how David had designed the seat to give it strength and comfort while making the weaving process efficient.
The finished seat is neat and has a clean look with just enough decoration given by the waling weave at  front and back which also gives the seat the strength it needs. The white of the willow contrast and complements brilliantly the black of the pickled oak and gives the a really modern look bringing the story very much into the present.
weaving the willow seat Original David Drew and Pickled Oak chairs

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Scythe Course dates 2012

My course dates and prices for 2012 are finally set, more details on the courses page:

  • Learn to Mow with an Austrian Scythe  26 May, 30 June, 9 Sept 2012  – £60
  • Scythe Improvers   11 Aug – £70
  • Improve your Peening   12 Aug – £60  – Book both improvers’ courses together for £115

All courses take place at Burneside near Kendal where I have access to lovely grassland on the edge of the Lake District.  It’s a fantastic area to spend a weekend with accommodation to suit every budget.
For more information or to book simply send me an email with the dates you wish to book. I will then invoice you using PayPal which is very secure, easy to use and doesn’t require you to become a member of PayPal. Alternatively, you can pay by cheque if you prefer. Payment is required to confirm your place.
If you have an allotment, community orchard or gardening group then I can come and teach the group on your own land (you also get your mowing done!).
It’s going to be a great year, I look forward to mowing with you.

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Pickled oak chair

So me and my Castle Drogo chair (the only furniture I owned at the time) moved to Cumbria. In time I decided that I would make this one-slat chair part of  my new range of handmade green wood chairs. It had proven it’s comfort and I felt the classic Shaker style and simple design would make it equally suited as an office dining or cafe chair.
So I have made my own interpretation, altering the dimensions slightly, reducing the length of the back posts and  raising the front rungs to lessen their chance of being damaged by people’s feet.
As a final touch I decided to pickle the oak to give the chair a contemporary feel when paired with the willow seat. Pickling oak is a simple process which I’ve used to good effect on smaller projects in the past. I dissolve a little steel wool in a jar of vinegar and then just wipe the clear solution on to the oak. At first nothing happens but by the time you’ve worked round to the third post, the first is turning a deep midnight blue like magic. The steel reacts with the tannin in the oak so it’s a natural colour which comes from the wood itself and leaves the grain visible.
Natural oak chair Black pickled oak chair

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Ransome's lawn mower

Here is the sentence you thought you’d never read on scytherspace: I’ve got myself a lawn mower.
Ransome's lawn mowerThis though, is no ordinary mower, it’s a Ransome’s Ajax push mower from the 1960’s with 12″ wide cutters, solid wood rollers and a heavy cast iron roller to the rear.
It has a steel grassbox, comes in gentlemanly green with racing stripes and is ‘by appointment to the Queen’! It needs a bit of tlc and it’s by no means a lightweight but it’s got heritage and was free so I’m not complaining.
So what do I want a mower for, no matter how sophisticated? Over the years of mowing, I’ve become increasingly interested in haymaking, traditional meadows and wild flowers. I’ve spent time in the mountains of Czech Republic and Transylvania making hay in flower-rich meadows, read about meadow management and discussed restoration projects with the North Pennines HayTime project. I discovered that Natural Enland has a ‘Wildflower meadow in your garden‘ booklet and started to learn about the cutting regime for traditional meadows. At the Somerset Scythe Festival last year, Dave Oxford gave a presentation on the new, lightweight breed of push mowers that are on the market and a project he did with them and Dorset council. I was impressed and immediately saw the potential in a scythe/ push mower combination for the ‘garden meadow’ idea.
Rasome's Ajax mowerTo encourage wildflowers,  the grass sward needs to be kept short in spring, traditionally by grazing with livestock. Around late May, the meadow is ‘shut up’ (the animals removed) and the grass allowed to grow until it’s harvested for hay in late July. In autumn, the ‘aftermath’ (grass regrowth) is again grazed off with the action of the beasts’ feet creating bare patches of soil for seed germination. Obviously, there’s no finer way to harvest your hay crop than by scythe but what about the spring and autumn short-cropping? Well, in skilled hands the scythe will cut this too. I well remember a group of National Trust wardens watching in amazement as my Oriental blade cropped the grass on their machine-cut lawn. For a lot of folk though, it can be frustrating and doesn’t give them the neat look they want. That’s where the mower comes in. Use it in the spring when you want a close shave lawn then sit back and watch the meadow grow until the end of summer when the scythe comes out for harvesting.
Ransome's - Of course, to have a flower-rich meadow where for years there was nothing but ryegrass and swingball takes a bit more effort than simply not cutting the grass so much. I’ve still a lot to learn myself so I’m continuing my studies and plan to organise some haymeadow training days in 2012. If you’re interested in these, please send me an email and subscribe to the blog to keep up to date with progress.

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Rescuing the Castle Drogo chairs

In 2008, a visit to a cafe set in motion a series of connections leading to my newest chair design.
Restored oak chairsI was at Castle Drogo, a National Trust property in Devon where I was living at the time. After a fairly ordinary visit to the castle, I was amazed on walking into the cafe to see hand-made chairs at every table. Simple and beautiful post-and-rung ladderbacks with a single slat and obviously made from green oak with a woven willow seat. After sitting and examining them over my coffee I went to find someone who could tell me more about them. A chap at reception told me they’d been made about 20 years before but he couldn’t remember the name of the maker. Anyway, if I liked them then maybe I could buy one, he informed me, as the Trust were about to get rid of them.
A week or two later the chairs were still in my mind so I went back to Castle Drogo with tools to measure, photograph and document them only to find a building site and levelled hole where the cafe had been. Fortunately the chairs hadn’t gone yet but were in a nearby farmer’s barn waiting to be auctioned off.
I thought this was such a shame to happen that I contacted the property manager and working with Linda Lemieux, a local basketmaker, we convinced the Trust that the chairs should be renovated and kept.
Repairing an oak chair slatA couple of weeks in a damp barn had given the chairs a coating of mould, especially on the willow seats and it took several days to wash each one with hot water and a solution of oxalic acid, clean and reoil the woodwork and carry out some minor repairs. After 20 years of hard work in a busy cafe this amounted to two broken rungs, damage to the top  edge of some slats and a few worn willow rods, testament to just how strong and durable green wood chairs are. For me it was  brilliant to work on them all, handling each one and getting to see how the maker had used even wood which was slightly bent or curved around a knot in order to make the most from his trees. I imagined how it would be to shave the 200 legs, 50 slats and 600 rungs for them and the feeling of watching them take shape. I was so inspired that I decided to try and track down the maker.
The only other chair with a willow seat I’d ever seen was a ‘Somerset chair’  made by Tom Kealy a few years before. I contacted Tom who told me he’d learned the weaving from David Drew, a very well respected basketmaker, and had taught David chairmaking in return. Tom passed me on to David’s friend John Leach, the potter, who happens to live just by the site of the Somerset Scythe Festival.  So I called in to see John and got an address for David in France where I wrote to him with photos of the chairs and the story of the rescue. I figured, if I’d made a batch of 50 chairs and they were still being used 20 years later I’d like to hear about it so maybe he would too.
In return I received a lovely letter with a wonderful series of photos showing David, his wife Judy and daughter Jane making the chairs. They wrote that 100 chairs were made and took the three of them 2 or 3 months to make while they lived in a mercedes truck during a cold winter. Whatever happened to the other 50 chairs I’ve no idea.
David Drew and family making oak chairs David Drew and family with oak chairs
At Castle Drogo now the chairs are used around the property for staff and volunteers. I have kept one for myself and when I moved to Cumbria with it the trail of connections continued. More of that next time.

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Bowl carving one-to-one workshop

Carved green wood bowlsA great day today teaching Sam Robinson  on a one-to-one workshop at Sprint Mill. Sam is a current apprentice on the Bill Hogarth Apprenticeship scheme, now in his second year. We’d been talking about various crafts a couple of weeks ago and he asked me to run a course to learn how I carve bowls and  improve his technique.
We started by looking at some of my carved bowls and discussing the design elements involved,   importance of balancing the bowl by knowing which areas needed to be left thicker and where it could be carved finer. Sam was also keen to see some of my spoons and the finish I achieve solely through carving and which he’s aspiring to.
Carving with the adzeSam had brought along some birch logs which were really fresh and ideal for the project.  Once cleaved in half with a froe we began immediately with marking out guidelines for the bowl and axing out a twist in the wood.  I always start by establishing a flat surface for the base of the bowl. This makes it sit stably on the bench and acts as a reference surface for marking out the height and measuring the depth as you carve. Flattening the top surface at this stage is a lot of work that will then be carved away when hollowing.
These one-to-one courses are great fun to do as I can fit the content exactly to the student’s skills and learning goals. It also gives me chance to put in lots more information and ‘tricks of the trade’ that there wouldn’t be time for with a group. A quality final product comes from well thought-out design and I showed Sam some tips on marking out for the bowl shape before we got onto the adzing. From our previous conversation I knew was an area where I could really improve Sam’s technique and his efficiency in hollowing the bowl. Sure enough, after a short demonstration, the chips were flying and the bowl started to take shape. Working with an adze is fun and exciting; like the axe it can swiftly remove large amounts of wood but can equally, in skilled hands, work extremely accurately. When I’m carving, I like to work right up to the line and leave a smooth surface with the adze, so there’s only the refining work to be done.
Beautiful smooth shavingsBefore that though, we flattened the top surface of the bowl then remarked our shape and did a little more work with the adze before moving on to using gouges and knives. I had brought a selection of tools that I have used over the years for carving bowls, explaining their pros and cons. I demonstrated how I push the wide gouge through the wood using my body weight and hand positions to add power which then leads to controlled cutting and a smooth finish. Sam is well used to working with tools of course and a quick learner so he quickly picked it up and before long had a bowl full of beautiful shavings. As well as the gouges, we used a selection of hook knives including one long-handled knife designed especially for bowl carving, cutting across the grain to smooth the bottom of the bowl.
The other area that Sam wanted help with was in defining the outer surface of the bowl. He had picked out one of my spoons he especially liked as inspiration for his design and I explained how the same principles of wall thickness applied to both the bowl of a spoon and a large bowl. With a combination of axe, gouge and knife he worked on defining the shape, learning for himself along the way the importance of the initial design stages and the challenges of marrying the sides, ends and handles together.
Sam with green wood bowlAt the end of the day Sam took away a really well-made, good looking bowl but more importantly the practical skills in using the adze and finishing tools. He was already planning his next bowl as he left.
One-to-one sessions can be catered to your own goals but could include

  • Spoon carving and design
  • Hay rake making
  • Learn to carve fan birds
  • Make and use a shavehorse
  • Steam bending wood
  • Axe and knife techniques for various projects

A day with me in the workshop costs £150 including  materials and use of my tools. Or share with a friend for £250.

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Crosscut Saw Jointer & Raker Guage

A flurry of posts this week which is unusual. There’s often lots going on but I don’t always get around to posting about them.
Anyway, today I got a stage further with my project to start properly using my two man crosscut saws with the arrival of a jointer/ raker guage which I bought online from America. This one is a ‘short’ jointer made by Atkins & Co of Indianapolis. It’s marked as being patented ‘May 5 74’ which, the more I think about it, could be 1874? Well, aside from a bit of surface rust, it’s in great condition and I’m pleased to see there is still a thin shim of paper under the raker guage plate where the previous user set it up for his saw.
Atkins jointer/ raker guage front Atkins jointer/ raker guage back
For sharpening, a flat file is clamped into the tool and bent to match the arc of the saw teeth using the screw thread. The file is then run over the teeth to file them all to the same length before they’re sharpened. The raker guage sets the distance below this arc of the raker teeth which clear the sawdust from the saw cut. I’m looking forward to trying it out.
There’s a lot of interest in two man saws here in the north-west of England and I’m planning to organise a day this year for people to get together and learn about their use, sharpening and maintenance. If you’re interested in taking part, send me an email steve-tomlin[@]hotmail.co.uk 

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Blue spindleback dining chair

In between everything else I’m spending quite a bit of time at the moment on designing a series of chairs. I’ve been making green wood chairs since I did a course with Mike Abbott in Herefordshire in 2003. I did a short spell as one of the assistants on his courses before heading off to concentrate on my own green wood craft.
My chairs are post-and-rung frame chairs, often known as Shaker chairs after the american religious community that made and popularised the style. For my own chairs I’m working on slightly different designs, seating materials and finishes to produce a range of chairs with a traditional heritage but a contemporary feel. As always I’m experimenting with the craft and trying to push it forwards.
This chair is my first spindleback. It’s important to get the spacing and angle of the spindles right so the chair is comfortable; a centre spindle is definitely to be avoided as this is where your spine will sit. The chair is made from locally grown ash with steam bent back posts to tilt the back which gives support and comfort. It is painted with my own made tempera paint, a mixture of egg, oil and water as used in paintings by the ‘Old Masters’. I love how the paint has an organic, aged look to it with the grain of the wood still visible, as though this is a chair with history. To complement that feeling I’ve used ‘antique’ paper rushes to weave a traditional rush pattern seat.
These chairs are made to commission and cost £255 + p&p. Please email me steve-tomlin[@]hotmail.co.uk to discuss your requirements.
Painted spindleback chair

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Saxon Peening Station

I’ve been sent some photos from Michael Stibane in Germany of his peening station which his great-grandfather, who was a cartwright, produced and sold.
Peening is done on a flat anvil and by altering the string on the upright pole, the angle of the blade on the anvil can be altered. Peening with the scythe blade and snath attached is common where they are joined together using a simple collar and wedge. Fitting and securing them is more time consuming than with a modern collar so once the blade is set up correctly and fixed, they are kept together so as not to disturb the arrangement.
Michael says:

The can is for water. I learned, while peening, you have to apply water from time to time to the point of the blade you are peening. So I dip the hammer into water every ten or twenty strokes. Grandpa told me, it tempers the steel. Seems logic to me: hammer-steel-deformation-heat-water-tempering :) .
As far as I know the peening station is not traditional for my area (Eastern Ore Mountains). Most of our people here have a flat anvil on a wooden stand with a peg. They stick it into the ground on a slope, sit down on the grass face to valley and start peening away with snath attached.

I’m not sure about the tempering theory for the water but I have seen knifemakers wet their hammer while forging which then gives the steel a ‘polished’ surface.
Follow the link to see all the photos, including measurements, of the peening station.
peening bench
Michael also sent me a link to a Hay Camp taking place in the Eastern Ore mountains near Dresden  July 6th – 22th 2012. If you go, please email me a report!

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Adze, bowl knife and other handles

Anyone getting tired yet of seeing photos of my tools post-fire? Fear not dear reader, I’m nearly at the end now.
bowl knife, adze and chiselsLater this week I’m teaching a 1-to-1 course on green wood bowl carving for Sam Robinson, one of the Bill Hogarth Coppice apprentices. It’s something I really enjoy doing, partly because it uses such a simple tool kit, my hollowing adze and large hook knife being principal among them. Sam has done a little carving already and is looking for some tuition to improve his efficiency with the tools and final finish. I also want to spend time with him focusing on design and the overall balance and shape of his bowls.
So, more ash carved or turned on the pole-lathe and fitted with the original ferrules that I sifted out of the ashes. The adze is wedged with oak, left long so I can tighten it up if needed as the handle dries fully. My tools will never win a beauty contest and I’m still sad to know that despite my best efforts they’re not the tools they were. If nothing else, I’m now really good at carving and fitting handles. I’ve been thinking of making some spares in case I need to do this again but maybe that’d be tempting fate..

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