Buying the right size scythe

A scythe is a very personal tool and should be sized and adjusted to fit your body and mowing style for the most comfort and efficiency. This was especially true with the older English and American pattern scythes when the saying was “You can no more lend someone your scythe than you can lend them your false teeth”. This is still the case, even with the modern adjustable scythes and is the reason we spend so much time working with the scythe on my courses so that I can observe you mowing, make adjustments and send you home with the best tool for you.
Learning to scythe bramblesThis was highlighted for me last week when I gave two sessions on setting-up the scythe for people buying them for Christmas presents. Heather & Annie came together wanting to also learn about mowing brambles and we spent some time outside while Pip just wanted to know how to fit all the parts together and is now eagerly awaiting the spring.
In both cases their height was 5ft8in which, based on the guidelines online, would suggest buying a #2 sized snath  but as soon as we started to fit the handgrips I could see that this wouldn’t fit for them and they needed the #3. What’s important is not just your overall height but also the length of your legs, arm span and, of course, how you mow.
If you’re thinking of getting a scythe and learning to mow I always recommend that you get someone to set it up with you or even better, take a course and buy the scythe there. You’ll take home the right sized kit set to your height and, if you come on one of my courses, the wooden snath will be already oiled and the blade peened so it’s sharper than  when it leaves the factory and a pleasure to use. You definitely won’t want to lend it out.

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Yew Tree Barn Christmas Market 2012

Another chance to pick up some Cumbrian handmade crafts for the perfect present at the Yew Tree Barn Christmas Market on 8 & 9 Dec from 10-5pm at Low Newton near Grange-over-Sands in the Lake District. Directions available on their website.
Yew Tree Barn Christmas Market
hand carved wooden fruit bowl Shrink pots wooden containers wooden spoons wooden fan bird

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Pounding ash splints

pounding ash splintsSometimes, you just want to take the piece of wood and beat the hell out of it. Thankfully, the other week when Phil, Frank and I did just that it was for good reason and not just to release some built-up frustration.
In the US there’s a whole branch of basketry based on ash splints, thin ribbons of wood created by separating the growth layers by pounding either the whole log or a prepared billet. I’d seen it done in some videos and when Jarrod was over for Spoonfest he brought some small samples with him to use in his bark sheath workshop. Jarrod’s wife, April makes beautiful splint baskets from ash, see them at Woodspirit in the gallery. Several UK makers were interested in the process and discussed trying pounding our native ash, spurred on by some old references to the technique.
ash splintIt’s always easier to actually get on and try these ideas if there’s two of you so I mentioned it to  my mate Phil Bradley who’s a basketmaker. He was immediately excited by the possibilities and the video links I sent so we met up on a damp day earlier this month for what we refer to as a ‘play day’ but should probably come under ‘continuing professional development’ or something.
Phil’s mate Frank came over too and we each took turns hammering the billets we’d cleaved and drawknifed out of a green 6″ diameter log. It was satisfyingly easy to do and didn’t need as much hammering as I’d expected, just a series of overlapping blows top and bottom (perpendicular to the growth rings) to break the bonds between layers and then angled strikes to separate them. This gave us splints about 1.5-2mm thick which we split further using a pocketknife to start a split and then pulling it apart. The inside has a gorgeous silky texture which seemed ready to use.
ash splints splitting ash splints
Phil kept the splints and plans to use them as highlights in his willow basketry, I just wanted to see if it would work and have a day out in good company.

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Shrink Pots

Shrink potsAs wood dries, it shrinks and often changes shape as a result. This is a major concern for most woodworkers and they go to great lengths to dry timber and keep it dry before starting work. With greenwood work I am working with freshly-felled timber which is still soft to carve by hand and will steam bend into curved shapes. The drying and shrinking is of course a consideration but can be an advantage. Carved bowls and spoons find their own organic final shape, chair joints lock together without the need for gluing, while in the case of a shrink pot it’s the whole basis of their construction.
Shrink pot coffee canShrink pots are a simple project; a greenwood log is hollowed out and the inside smoothed using gouges before a shallow groove is cut on the inside at one end. A base is cut from a dry board which fits loosely inside the pot and is captured in the groove as the pot dries. I then shape the outside or leave it with a bark finish and fit lids once the pot has found it’s final shape. They look great for tea and coffee in the kitchen and have loads of uses around the rest of the house too.
You can see my current range of pots which are available for sale on their own page.

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Scything at Christmas

Normally the scythe scene is all quiet by now but in the last couple of weeks I’ve had a steady stream of enquiries from people wanting to buy Learn to Scythe courses as Christmas presents. It’s a great idea, give someone you know an experience present to look forward to that will arm them with a set of practical skills to enjoy for the rest of their life.
I’ll be adding more course dates in the new year but for now there are two scything courses  for beginners set 19 May & 28 June with the price staying at £60 for the day. If you’d like to book I can send you a voucher entitling the recipient to a place on any of the courses at Sprint Mill near Kendal in Cumbria – just send an email to steve-tomlin[at]hotmail.co.uk

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Rocking Chair Rush Seat

I’ve spent a couple of days weaving the rush seat on the new rocking chair and I’m pretty happy with the results. The colours in the rushes are beautiful, a mix of greens and yellows which complement the ash well.
Rush seat weavingI’m always surprised how physical weaving a chair seat is, I want the seat to feel full and tight so it supports the user so keeping the tension as you work round while anchoring the chair with your legs is something of a wrestling match. After weaving three-quarters of the seat on the first day I stuff the seat from underneath using more rushes to fill it out and then let it dry overnight before. By the next day the coils have dried and shrunk a bit and  I can push them up tight before finishing off the weaving and stuffing again. It’s amazing how much stuffing a seat this size needs but the result is a seat that is firm but with the soft, natural rush texture.
I’m delivering this chair to the customer so I’ll drill the holes to peg the rockers when I’m happy with how it rocks but not fix them on so it’s easier to pack in my car.
Rush seat rocking chair Rush seat rocking chair Rush chair seat

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Scythe haymaking video

I made this video during the Scythe Improvers and peening courses I ran in August with clips of the group learning to mow in the orchard, hammering and cutting weeds on a slope. It also includes the haymaking Edward, Christiane and I did in the days afterwards. Although we had an amazingly wet summer I can honestly say that I only spent one morning with my raincoat on and that the grass cut during my May, June and August courses at Sprint Mill was all made into hay and baled using our hand baler.
While it’s winter outside, why not enjoy a few minutes of summer?

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Ladderback rocking chair

A couple of photos from a rocking chair commission I’ve been working on. This is a ladderback style chair made of ash from the Edenhall Estate near Penrith with specially narrow slats to lighten the effect of the frame.
For this chair the customer has requested a rush pattern seat in real rushes. I would normally recommend the use of paper rush for this kind of seat since it’s becoming quite difficult to source good natural rushes and they are more time-consuming to weave. Fortunately I’ve got a couple of bolts of rush that I cut down in Somerset with Linda Lemieux from Devon so I’ll be weaving them over the next week.
Ladderback rocking chair frame  rocking chair detail

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Fan Bird video

With Christmas approaching I’ve been busy preparing fan birds which are popular as decorations and gifts this time of year. At shows during this summer, a few people have asked how they’re made and not completely believed that they’re just one piece of wood so I’ve made this short video showing how the split and carved blank is spread out to create the wings and tail of the bird. It’s still a magical thing for me each time I do this, to see the bird take shape and feel how strong and flexible the fibres are at the hinge.
I’ll be teaching a Fan Bird carving workshop on Nov 17th near Kendal in the Lake District. If you’d like to learn to make these wonderful birds yourself. They’re a great little project, suitable for everyone and you’ll never any problem finding homes for your creations. More details on my courses page or email me steve-tomlin[at]hotmail.co.uk for details.
 

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I teach spooncarving, that my part

Earlier this month I ran one of my Spoon Carving workshops with a great group, here they are at the end of a really fun weekend.
Spoon carving course group
When I teach spoon carving, I want people to go away with more than just a wooden spoon that they’ve made over the weekend, I’m trying to teach them skills that they can go away with to carve more spoons, kuksas, bowls or whatever they want. The skills of understanding wood and carving with axe and knives is the most valuable thing to take away. I also believe that to learn to use these skills, they need to be practised until you really understand them and how they work. This all means that the emphasis is on learning to use the tools and we don’t make a spoon until the second day.
This is a bit of a surprise for some people but think of it like Daniels training in the classic ‘Karate Kid’ (the 80’s version, not the terrible remakes). Our first day of cutting sticks and making butter spreaders is my equivalent of the ‘Wax on, wax off’ sequence, training specific muscles and movements ready for the main event. It means that we build up the techniques progressively and, when we come to carve spoons on the second day the work goes much more easily.
spoon carving axe practise practising knife power cuts
Meanwhile, Alex had already done a spoon carving workshop with my friend Robin Wood who runs excellent courses on the same basis as me. My courses are suitable for complete beginners but people with experience also sign up and I can add in extra exercises to progress their skills and challenge them. Alex had a great eureka moment with the ‘chest expander’ cut which became his new favourite and worked on cutting long smooth facets, particularly on the underside of the spoon. His work was really nice as you can see below:
Alex spoon carving Carved greenwood spoons by Alex Nicholson
So sit back and reminisce a while then get to and practise.

ps I don’t subscribe to the ‘I say you do, no questions’ part, questions are really fun on a course and help me learn too.

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