A scythe is a very personal tool and should be sized and adjusted to fit your body and mowing style for the most comfort and efficiency. This was especially true with the older English and American pattern scythes when the saying was “You can no more lend someone your scythe than you can lend them your false teeth”. This is still the case, even with the modern adjustable scythes and is the reason we spend so much time working with the scythe on my courses so that I can observe you mowing, make adjustments and send you home with the best tool for you.
This was highlighted for me last week when I gave two sessions on setting-up the scythe for people buying them for Christmas presents. Heather & Annie came together wanting to also learn about mowing brambles and we spent some time outside while Pip just wanted to know how to fit all the parts together and is now eagerly awaiting the spring.
In both cases their height was 5ft8in which, based on the guidelines online, would suggest buying a #2 sized snath but as soon as we started to fit the handgrips I could see that this wouldn’t fit for them and they needed the #3. What’s important is not just your overall height but also the length of your legs, arm span and, of course, how you mow.
If you’re thinking of getting a scythe and learning to mow I always recommend that you get someone to set it up with you or even better, take a course and buy the scythe there. You’ll take home the right sized kit set to your height and, if you come on one of my courses, the wooden snath will be already oiled and the blade peened so it’s sharper than when it leaves the factory and a pleasure to use. You definitely won’t want to lend it out.
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Sometimes, you just want to take the piece of wood and beat the hell out of it. Thankfully, the other week when Phil, Frank and I did just that it was for good reason and not just to release some built-up frustration.
It’s always easier to actually get on and try these ideas if there’s two of you so I mentioned it to my mate Phil Bradley who’s a basketmaker. He was immediately excited by the possibilities and the video links I sent so we met up on a damp day earlier this month for what we refer to as a ‘play day’ but should probably come under ‘continuing professional development’ or something.

Shrink pots are a simple project; a greenwood log is hollowed out and the inside smoothed using gouges before a shallow groove is cut on the inside at one end. A base is cut from a dry board which fits loosely inside the pot and is captured in the groove as the pot dries. I then shape the outside or leave it with a bark finish and fit lids once the pot has found it’s final shape. They look great for tea and coffee in the kitchen and have loads of uses around the rest of the house too.
I’m always surprised how physical weaving a chair seat is, I want the seat to feel full and tight so it supports the user so keeping the tension as you work round while anchoring the chair with your legs is something of a wrestling match. After weaving three-quarters of the seat on the first day I stuff the seat from underneath using more rushes to fill it out and then let it dry overnight before. By the next day the coils have dried and shrunk a bit and I can push them up tight before finishing off the weaving and stuffing again. It’s amazing how much stuffing a seat this size needs but the result is a seat that is firm but with the soft, natural rush texture.







